Step 1)

Design Pan layout. Brackets. Shape. Layout all wires and relays. Battery and all relays have to be permanently mounted , or seat may not fit back on correctly.

Step 2)

For this step an extremely low tack sheet tape is used and is also detacked. This step is used especially if the paint job is custom. ( paint to watch out for, House of  Kolor ,all Candies, Marbelizers, Gold leaf, ground metal , fresh paint.....) and or fresh. The only reason this tape is used is to ensure no damage to the paint.

Step 3)

Most common used is this readily available painters tape .This tape is extremely low tack, we also detack this tape. Any Hardware store. This tape process is used for the same reason as above. This step also builds a barrier for heat and helps to build thickness for proper fit of pan after covered.

Step 4)

Readily available Duck tape (always use the best grade) is next. Cover all exposed areas with the tape horizontally then again vertically to over lap and lesson the chance for resin seepage. Check for any possible lifted edges. Measure and mark pan layout, to be marked later.

Step 5)

Now that the seat pan surface is set it is now time to protect the bike. We edge the pan area with 24" automotive masking paper, and then cover the entire bike with plastic incase of any possible drips. (better safe than sorry )sometimes wile curing  the fiberglass will melt  through the plastic however will not go through the paper. It is possible to laminate with fiberglass from this point, however we do recommend  step 6.

Step 6)

There are a couple of reasons we recommend covering the entire surface with high grade shipping tape.

                    A) The pan will pull easier

                    B) This will reduce the fiberglass sweat under pan.

                    C) We us Sharpies and this will keep the resin from washing the ink away.

                     D) This creates an added barrier against possible leakage.

Step 7)

We set up our pre cut fiberglass matt, polyester resin, mek, brush , Acetone, roller and Latex gloves .We pre wet all matt. We chose  mat because it is readily available in our shop. At this stage other items that can be used are Carbon Fiber, Kevlar , or woven roven , however there are different procedures that should be used. To eliminate odor epoxy resins may be used in place of  polyesters.

Step8 )

With our brush we lay up resin , we then use our roller to remove all air. If you replace matt with woven you may squeegee air out. This step adds for strength when mounting brackets.

Step 9)

Now transfer measurements to dry fiberglass and carefully  remove the pan. At this stage we also remove all tape except some of the blue so the pan does not scratch the paint during remaining steps.

Step 10)

Trim the pan to marks. In this picture we use a common jig saw available at any hardware outlet. Normally we use air saws. This stage is the most time consuming. We place the pan on and off as many times as needed sanding a little here and there until the pan looks perfect. Remember the finished product will only be as good as the pan. All edges should be even and sanded smooth no jagged edges or air gaps. Automotive body fillers can be used to correct any imperfections.

Step 11)

At this stage we locate the front bracket hook and then cut out in back of it for our bracket.

Step 12)

Bend up your bracket allow for future material clearance and install. We recommend short 3/16th" rivets through the glass into the bracket. On the rear of this seat we will use common 2" Velcro to attach. There are many different ways to attach from suction cups to exposed brackets. After brackets are made we recommend test fitting one last time.

Shelf:

This determines your back support and lower back comfort.

Push:

This determines how far forward and high you sit.

Tip:

This is for look only however if to high can result in an uncomfortable inner leg due to transition of foam.